Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children are reluctant to master the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
